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Mumbai’s poster boys

It was Haji Abu’s grandfather, and then his father, who passed on their love for Hindi cinema to him. Mr. Abu turned his hobby into his profession, opening the Poster Shop some time in the early 1990s. Twenty or so years later, his tiny shop at Chor Bazaar (91-98704-40970) is crammed with thousands of old film posters, lobby cards and assorted film memorabilia, Mr. Abu explained as he showed off carefully preserved ticket stubs for blockbuster movies from the 1960s and ’70s.

Chor Bazaar, meaning ‘thieves market’ was once the place where stolen goods found their way. Now, it is where locals go to pick up anything that can be remotely called antique – old remodeled furniture, unusual silver and brassware, clocks and lamps, faded statues and paintings. It spans the length of Mutton Street and a couple of parallel lanes in the heart of South Mumbai’s bustling Mohammad Ali Road.

Classics like Mother India and Sholay loom large on the makeshift walls of the Poster Shop. “In those days, the posters were larger-than-life, just as the movies themselves,” says Abu. The best part about shopping at Abu’s is his thorough knowledge about the posters and the movies they promote. He is happy to share trivia on any movie, however obscure. The Poster Shop has both originals and copies – the former, painstakingly and lovingly painted by hand for hours and even days, a rarity in this age of instant computer graphics.

Haji Abu (91-98704-40970) counts among his regular customers collectors from all over the world – USA, Canada, UK, and of course all over India. As we talk, he proudly shows an article about him in a local newspaper and then a glossy booklet from a film exhibition in Canada where his posters were used. He rolls and packs these posters carefully in hardboard tubes so they can be carried anywhere.

Although Abu’s shop does not stock much material from English movies, A-1 Corner and Bollywood Bazaar further down the road have these on offer, all the way from The Tramp to Godfather, via James Bond. The best time to visit Chor Bazaar is on a weekday afternoon (avoid Fridays), when the streets are quieter and the vendors have more time to chat. Even though most shopkeepers speak basic English, it is best take a long a local who can bargain in true Mumbai style.

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This was published originally in the travel blog of the New York Times a few months ago. Read Hindi Cinema, in Poster Form, at a Mumbai Shop in the NY Times.

Also read: A walk in Chor Bazaar

A walk in Chor Bazaar

Did you know Chor Bazaar was originally called Shor Bazaar? Till it became the place where stolen and smuggled goods found their way in South Bombay. Today, there is no shor; on that Sunday afternoon in the month of Ramzan, Chor Bazaar is quiet and sleepy. The five of us walk the streets, feeling out of place and awkward. The shopkeepers are reserved, nobody calls out or seems willing to chat their time away. But once you enter a shop and begin talking, they thaw and begin to charm their way to a sale.What a nice walk! Through quirky and interesting antiques, wooden furniture, brass and bronze, stone and plastic. Those tiny shops stocking thousands and thousands of Bollywood posters and memorabilia. And stores with interesting names and lines – like Portbello: We recycle the past. You need to have a lot of patience, though, since at first sight, it all seems like a lot of junk, but tucked in between are the treasures – a statue of Ganesha here, a beautiful old clock there.

Here, Chor Bazaar in pictures…

Visiting a Historic, and Hidden, Area of Mumbai

Khotachiwadi, a historic area of Mumbai, is like Platform 9 3/4 in the Harry Potter series: invisible to all but those who know exactly where it is or are determined to find it. The narrow lane leading into the wadi, or hamlet, does nothing to inspire confidence and, like Harry and his friends, you need to take a leap of faith and enter.

Read more about Khotachiwadi here – my first piece for the New York Times travel blog…

The Iftaar feast

I had written a piece on Mohammad Ali Road – that appeared in this edition of Taste & Travel magazine along with another article on Shekhawati. Here is the iftaar piece…

iftaar

Don’t worry, you will smell it much before you see it, said my cabbie when I asked him to drop me close to the Minara Masjid at Mohammad Ali Road. It was the night before Eid and we were headed to where much of Mumbai heads during the month of Ramzan. For when the sun has set for the day and the muezzin’s call for the evening prayer has been answered and it is officially time to break the fast, the feast begins at Mohammad Ali Road.

Milk + sugar = sin

At Mohammad Ali Road, the colors of the food and the clothes worn by the women clash with the dazzle of the spotless white kurtas worn by most of the men. The fragrance of ittar on a few thousand wrists competes with the smell of the meat roasting and all the sugar and malai floating around. The noise is overwhelming, but just in front of the Minara Masjid, under its twinkling green lights, where the old men sporting white beards and solemn looks sit on benches collecting money from the devout, it is strangely quiet. Even peaceful.

There are make-shift shops selling prayer caps with intricate embroidery from Maharashtra, chikan-work kurtas from Lucknow, perfumes and ittar from Hyderabad. If the men are there to socialize and eat, the women are there for the shopping – the heena, the glass bangles, even sewaiyan for the kheer and dates for the prayers – all the way from Saudi Arabia. Traders from all over India set up shop here for the month, vanishing with the last rays of the sun on Eid.

Man can not survive on bread alone...

But during Ramzan, Mohammad Ali Road is primarily about food. It is possible for the foodie to have a full course meal here on this road, amidst the noise and the crowd. Starting with bread and soup and ending with sinful desert, all the way through meat and more bread. You enter the road at Suleiman Usman’s sweet shop, and if you are anything like me, begin your meal with a phirni. As I scrape the last bits of phirni from the cup, watching the crowds wolf down cup after delicious cup of their favorite Indian sweets, it is easy to see why Suleiman’s said to be popular with even the glitterati of Bombay. Down the road are golawalas (ice-candy with all sorts of fruity flavors from raw mango to strawberry and black grape) and halwais every few hundred meters, quick pit-stops for those cursed with a sweet tooth. And the meat – roasting on grills, the shawarma, baida parathas, fresh naan, bheja, kaleja, biryani, and how did I forget the kababs… even plain roti and dal for those curious vegetarians there just for the experience. And to end, those sinful malpuas at Suleiman’s – topped with malai just for added impact.

Mmmmmmalpua

I remember reading that Suleiman’s had introduced low calorie sweets during Ramzan for diabetics – but personally, I think low-cal sweets rank somewhere at the bottom, just near Bisleri pani-puri. So I say – forget those calories, just follow you nose and you will not be disappointed.

Food and art...