Posters from the golden age of travel

A bunch of lovely travel posters from the days when travel was still an adventure, a journey into the unknown.

From this flickr set:

The Boston Public Library’s Print Department is home to more than 350 vintage travel posters, most dating from the 1920s-1940s, the “Golden Age of Travel.”

Railways opened up America and Europe, luxe ocean liners introduced elegance into
overseas voyages, and drivers took to the road in record numbers in their new automobiles. By the mid-1940s, new airlines crisscrossed the globe, winging adventure-seekers to far-flung destinations.

Travel agents and ticket offices during this period were festooned with vivid, eye-catching posters, all designed to capture the beauty, excitement and adventure of travel and to promote a world of enticing destinations and new modes of transportation. Individual artists gained fame for their distinctive graphic styles and iconic imagery, and many posters from this era still remain important works of art long after their original advertising purposes have faded.

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2011: my year in images

I am off for a trek in the Himalayas in a couple of days. Picture me bringing in the new year in a shiver and freeze mode (yes, don’t ask – but tell me, those of you who have met me, I don’t actually *look* crazy, do I?). Anyway, so here is looking back on 2011 and where the year took me.

Rajasthan for a week in January, followed by the Kala Ghoda Arts Festival in Mumbai…

Europe was the big trip of the year – three weeks in Austria, Czech Republic, France, Belgium and the Netherlands…

A quick trip to Turkey for a few days in May…

Varanasi for a photography workshop and from there, Khajuraho and Orchha with Vamsee

Ooty with my parents for a long weekend before Deepavali…

In November, Pushkar for the cattle fair, which I’ve wanted to do for years now…

And now, the trek – see you all in the new year! Have a wonderful, wanderful 2012 :)

Happy 2010!

“Courage,” the Old Year whispers as it ends,
Weary’s the world and penitent and sad,
Waiting the touch to make all mankind friends,
Yours be the luck and strength to do it, lad.

~ Harry Irving Phillips

Trust

Here is wishing you happy Christmas and a wonderful new year in advance! I am headed to Sri Lanka on Friday – see you all here in the new year!

A story in dance

A story in dance

I recently watched a Kathakali recital at the Chembur Fine Arts Society in Mumbai. The performance that evening was based on the story of the wicked king Jarasandha who is supposed to have lived in the time of the Mahabharata. Over a two hour period, the performers enacted a piece called Jarasandha Vadam (the conquest of Jarasandha) which traced the life and ultimate death of the evil king at the hands of the Pandava Bhima, aided by his cunning friend, Krishna.

Contrast

What the...?

Kathakali means a story (katha) told in the form of a play (kali). A mix of classical and folk dance forms, Kathakali is originally from the Malabar region of Kerala and goes back to the seventeenth century. Everything in Kathakali is exaggerated and larger-than-life – the music, the make up and the gestures – and the desired effect is sheer drama.

Kathakali as it was originally performed had no formal stage; it was performed typically in temple courtyards, under the open sky. In contemporary performances, though there is usually a well-defined stage (except in case of traditional settings in villages), performers are still allowed only limited means of expression – as defined by the norms of the art. Therefore the music, mostly percussion, is loud and lively, adding to the dramatic feel. The orchestra includes the chenda and maddalam (variants of drums) along with two male singers and a person with the cymbals.

I am the king

The songs are based on a heavy dose of Sanskrit, combined with local Malayalam. In Kathakali, there is almost no speech except for occasional sounds (vaachika) – laughter, grunts and roars – by the key characters. Therefore, the abhinaya (emotion) through the eyes and mudra (gestures) with hands and feet are as vital to the story-telling as the costume, and as embellished.

And even before all this, is the make-up, which starts three to four hours prior to the recital. Make-up in Kathakali is elaborate and indicative of the tone of the performance. Paints and oils, canvas and cloth, silk and cotton… it is a process that is as intensive and time-consuming to go through as it is fascinating to watch. Colour plays a significant symbolic role in indicating personality types and characters. Green and white signify the purer and softer emotions (Saatvik) of goodness and spirituality respectively. Red is a strong colour as everywhere else and denotes aggression (Rajasik) while black stands for evil (Tamasik). The other prominent colour in Kathakali is yellow, which combines good and bad, the qualities of Saatvik and Rajasik. For instance, in the performance I watched, Jarasandha, the villain of the story had a red beard, clearly signifying an evil, demonic personality.

Behind the scenes...

The eyes see it all

The traditional Kathakali repertoire is said to contain 101 stories from mythology. Performances typically begin late in the night and tend to go on for many hours, with the involvement of the audience kept up through the long night with dramatic story-telling devices. Part of the training involves special massages to impart flexibility to the body. Additionally, Kathakali exponents undergo several years of rigorous instruction in Kalaripayattu, a local martial arts form, to gain the grace and stamina that this dance requires. Perhaps for these reasons, all characters including female parts are always played by men.

Nowadays, the demand is for shorter performances which end in a couple of hours. Fortunately, unlike a lot of other traditional performing arts, Kathakali is alive and flourishing, thanks to the efforts of organizations like Kalamandalam and individual crusaders. I guess a story well told always attracts an interested audience.

A Quick Tip: Kerala Kalamandalam, the academy of performing arts founded in 1930, is based in Thrissur, just 110 km away from Cochin and is an excellent place to watch performances and the preceding elaborate make-up ritual.

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This piece on Kathakali was published recently in The India Tube. Check it out here.

Breakfast at 14000 feet

A breakfast for kings

4.30 a.m. and it is bright outside our tiny hotel room in Lachen. At just less than 9000 feet, Lachen feels pleasant; my teeth are already chattering but I choose to ignore that and focus instead on the dozens of families already up and about, children shouting to get on to their jeeps first. You see, I am mentally preparing myself for the long drive ahead to Gurudongmar Lake where I fully expect to freeze.

Anyway, heavily layered and clutching bags of popcorn (to combat altitude sickness, according to locals), we set off, bright and early. Gurudongmar Lake is just over 60 km from Lachen, a journey that is expected to take over four hours on mostly non-existent roads.

Warm clothes and inners? check. Popcorn bags? check. ipod and camera? check. Mental fortitude? er, um, check.

Halt at Thangu village The first half of this drive is easy; we stop at Thangu Village around 7 a.m. for a rest and breakfast. Thangu, at 14000 feet is a new dot on the Sikkim map, having appeared suddenly after tourism towards Gurudongmar Lake opened up in the last few years. Thangu is a small hamlet with a few homes that serve as food stops and basic night halts for the more adventurous type of traveler. A halt at Thangu, midway to the lake is essential to allow acclimatization before carrying on.

setting the table A local kid
So at Thangu at 7 in the morning, we get out of our jeeps, stretch our achy limbs and step into this tiny room. The householders have been at work for a while already; fresh steaming momos appear in front of us, Maggi is work in progress while cup after cup of tea is served.

And we sit there in that room in the middle of nowhere, sunlight steaming in through the single window straight on to our faces, adding to the warmth of the hot tea cups in our hands. And we tuck in to momos and Maggi, feeling complacently sorry for those in the package tours who have only warm bread and jam included in their breakfast. I don’t know if it is the cold outside or our own hunger, but this is easily one of the of the best breakfasts I have ever had.

Momo sauce

The Maggi expert

Momos and Maggi at 7 a.m. at 14000 feet.

Restaurant resthouse Empty beer bottles
The building we have stopped at has a small shop facing the street, selling perhaps everything a traveler in that part of the world may need, while the top floor has bathrooms and a couple of rooms to let out. There is a small hillock of empty beer bottles just outside this room, left there by tourists and the army folk, say locals.

Morning sunlight

Locals are going about their work with a smile and without much warm clothing; this is summer for them. Small children are running about with just a thin sweater against (what I think is) the biting cold while adults have nothing but a careless shawl around their shoulders. The village is not yet used to visitors and the locals are friendly, if shy. An hour at Thangu and we set off to Gurudongmar; we stop once again on the way back to Lachen, this time to recover from the high altitude discomfort (all those momos and Maggi did not help, nor did those packets of popcorn).

Hiding Potato princess Mom

Continued here:…and popcorn at 17000 feet

Flower power

People from a planet without flowers would think we must be mad with joy the whole time to have such things about us ~Iris Murdoch, A Fairly Honourable Defeat

Alas, how often do we notice them; the joy and cheer flowers give us, don’t we take for granted?

I am in Chennai just now to visit my dad who is very unwell – and I am down with severe food poisoning. And now is when I wish for fresh flowers around me…

Sunshine!

Faith

I read this today and liked it enough to share here…

To sit patiently with a yearning that has not yet been fulfilled, and to trust that, that fulfillment will come, is quite possibly one of the most powerful “magic skills” that human beings are capable of. It has been noted by almost every ancient wisdom tradition. – Elizabeth Gilbert

amritsar

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Also from the golden temple: all that that glitters

Why I travel

People ask me all the time “how do you travel so much”?

I came across the answer today – I travel a lot; I hate having my life disrupted by routine ~Caskie Stinnett

travel

The most delightful – and insightful – essay on travel is perhaps this by Pico Iyer – Why We Travel

We travel, initially, to lose ourselves; and we travel, next, to find ourselves. We travel to open our hearts and eyes and learn more about the world than our newspapers will accommodate.

Which is why I never understand people who travel – and then search for the comfortingly familiar – the McDonald’s and the Starbucks, the large impersonal hotel chain, the other person from the same country / city / community, the well-known tourist spots… If the idea is to be in one’s safe comfort zone, then why travel at all?